Whiten Head
Scotland’s north coast can be an intimidating place from the seat of a kayak. And Whiten Head is one of the most committing sections of this coastline. One that is worth waiting to explore when the swell is low. I’ve seen it in all weathers - when giant waves roll in to thunder against the cliffs and in more playful conditions, when the Atlantic has barely woken, but the sea state still demands intense concentration and the vast cliffs must be given a wide berth, despite the breakers of the tidal races beyond.
On a day of calm however, when it is possible to relax and absorb what lies beyond sight of so many, it is perhaps one of the most striking coastlines I have seen anywhere, from southern Australia to the arctic shores of Norway.
The scale is hard to grasp. The cliffs rise in giant blocks, huge arches and deep caves commanding attention, all the while conscious there is nothing to the north before Greenland. Remarkable stacks litter the base of the cliffs, which in places give way to some incredibly sheltered lagoons, though the landings are few and far between. But if you can, the bothy hereabouts is worth a look too.
